tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33715650891094893792024-02-07T17:01:24.895-08:00The DIY geekAndrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-74338982323186642572015-08-19T08:03:00.000-07:002016-03-23T08:04:46.518-07:00Drill press metal drilling a sailboat binnacleWe have all been there, a stuck and stripped bolt. Especially if you have a boat this can be particularly painful as decades of salt and metal galvanic corrosion really work together to ruin you day. In my case we had four through screws stuck inside the power control of the binnacle.<br />
The hope came when I found this (<a href="http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documents/11_Decimal_Equivalents_Guide.pdf">Irwin reference for metal drilling</a>) in that rpm and feeding speed are crucial to success vs. psychotic episodes! I definitely recommend it, good read.<br />
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the after picture...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8___uhM8lp_MvQ9-BNRWwgsT6VbXpN-qFjdLUEjTwD7qXUXWh6PCh4UI5OTO21smBpgBneZPRxt81F51L13fO1GKPlW5XWk5EE0ItYALqOgfA9JePbYm2zjOiCHeZBMREb88Xo8y-3nzD/s1600/IMG_0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8___uhM8lp_MvQ9-BNRWwgsT6VbXpN-qFjdLUEjTwD7qXUXWh6PCh4UI5OTO21smBpgBneZPRxt81F51L13fO1GKPlW5XWk5EE0ItYALqOgfA9JePbYm2zjOiCHeZBMREb88Xo8y-3nzD/s640/IMG_0017.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-80442791395035480672014-03-05T20:44:00.001-08:002014-03-05T20:47:26.606-08:00How to use the Arduino watchdog to build a reliable IOT WiFi prototype<br />
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<h3>
Problem</h3>
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Arduino is a convenient but unstable prototyping/DIY platform. When building applications that are supposed to run indefinitely (for example, monitoring), you will need a fault tolerance approach that virtually guarantees that your mote can self-heal.<br />
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<h3>
Solution (ok, it's a hack!)</h3>
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Use the a call to the set the hardware watchdog. Usually this is used to handle short processes (milliseconds). Locally the Arduino exposes a few time intervals including a gargantuan 5sec timeout. As it turns out, this is extremely useful if you do not quite your Wi-Fi shield like, oh I do not know, the CC3000.<br />
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So how does it work? Well you can find out more <a href="http://tushev.org/articles/arduino/item/46-arduino-and-watchdog-timer">here</a> (no point in reinventing the wheel) but basically you wanto import the library and then use a pattern like:<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">... <br />wdt_enable(WDTO_2S);<br /><b>critical section here</b><br />wdt_reset();<br />...</span><br />
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The first call tells the watchdog to bump the board (hardware reset) after the specified interval, in this case 2 seconds. The second call after the critical section put the watchdog back to sleep so you can continue your logic and avoid the draconian and unnecessary reboot since your critical section returned succesfully.<br />
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I used this on the CC3000 since this board can occasionally take a very long time to return from DHCP and/or DNS resolution. At times, it won't actually return at all thus the need to hack the Arduino code to self heal. Obviously the solution would be to dig into the CC3000 open source code and find out what is causing the application to hang indefinitely but who has that much time while prototyping? ;-) <br />
<br />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-6261718306840027882014-03-05T20:30:00.004-08:002014-03-05T20:30:51.145-08:00Restoring Ms EllyMs Elly is a 1972 vintage Moto Guzzi. A 850 Eldorado to be precise, thus the name Ms Elly!<br />
I decided to give her her own blog so look for it <a href="http://restoringmselly.blogspot.com/">here</a>.Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-30502637930327185462013-07-15T12:56:00.003-07:002013-07-15T12:56:40.383-07:00<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFM1VZJHS6yFRjHKBfv7FgZ5EHrBOucTlhcAfvi3eItADsYy7c5-PGaRshE2A14NKFKMrkhoDHiVVmpLPJrBrLrHj-707AAgXYtJvmfcVeg5b8qPIuoBIBmWOD3S89tN8Zi7M-ZX5LGXE/s1600/IMG_2092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCFM1VZJHS6yFRjHKBfv7FgZ5EHrBOucTlhcAfvi3eItADsYy7c5-PGaRshE2A14NKFKMrkhoDHiVVmpLPJrBrLrHj-707AAgXYtJvmfcVeg5b8qPIuoBIBmWOD3S89tN8Zi7M-ZX5LGXE/s200/IMG_2092.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before picture</td></tr>
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<h2>
Repacking a stuffing box (packing gland)</h2>
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Vessel: 1979 Newport 30MKII<br />
Engine: Universal Diesel 18hp (5216?)<br />
Gearbox: 2:1 ration<br />
Propeller shaft: 7/8"<br />
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<h4>
Intro</h4>
This is just to share some interesting lessons learned that might apply to similar set ups or sister boats. For general instructions on how to do this please see. <br />
<a href="http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box">http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box</a><br />
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Disclosure: what follow is for information purpose only. What you do with your boat is your responsibility. Some have reported significant amount of water flowing in once the stuffing nut is removed so it is your responsibility to make the right decisions before attempting any project.<br />
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Tips and tricks</h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After picture (wet due to cleaning) </td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>In my case the stuffing box body was tight enough around the shaft that the leak was minimal after I removed the packing nut. So I did my job with the boat in the water. The water flow increased over several minutes but it was still well within what a bilge pump or manual pump can handle.</li>
<li><div class="product_title">
I used narrow pipe wrenches. In my case the two nuts measured 45mm and 50mm. Big, crude plumber wrenches might not work well. Look for something sturdy but narrow that can properly grab the nuts.. I used<span itemprop="name"> <a href="http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Hex-Wrench">RIDGID E-110 Hex Wrench</a></span>. Just FYI.</div>
</li>
<li>The packing material for my stuffing box was 1/4" Flex. </li>
<li>The packing gland in my case is so close to the gearbox that you can barely unscrew the stuffing nut and move it away from the rest of the packing gland so you can work on it. Be prepared and check yours before you start</li>
<li>to remove the old packing, that is hard as a rock initially, I used a long wood screw. I carefully thread it into the stuffing for about 5 full rotations and then gently wiggled it back out. Do make sure to stay away from the shaft, you do not want to scratch it! Same for the stuffing nut albeit it is less critical. It worked like a charm and cut my time in half once I realized I could do that. I pulled the first of three stuffing sections using a picker and it took for ever since the only way to really get it out is to carefully find the splicing point and use that as leverage. Using the screw method above it is straightforward and considerably faster, just align the screw with the shaft so not to touch it and go.</li>
<li>Once I put it all back together with new packing, I hand tight it and left it soaking overnight. There were no leaks already. The next day I unscrewed it until I saw water dripping, then slowing tighten it until the leak stopped. Secured the counter nut, started the engine and tested that it drips every 30 sec or so. Ditto, done.</li>
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Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-2218193432132024702013-04-01T11:27:00.000-07:002013-04-06T08:40:47.215-07:00<h2>
Porsche Boxster M96 engine: Intermediate Shaft Bearing replacement</h2>
<h4>
In a nutsheel</h4>
<ul>
<li>2003 Boxster, 2.7l M96 engine, stock</li>
<li>91K miles</li>
<li>oil drip started a number of weeks prior to service</li>
<li>~1sec rattling noise at start up started at about the same time as above and became more and more frequent up to occurring at every engine start </li>
<li>no other signs of problem </li>
<li>Not to give away the ending but this is a happy ending story </li>
<li>Not a DIY project for beginners, or even intermediate IMHO</li>
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<h4>
Intro</h4>
There are a ton of blog posts about this, I am not going to replace them or repeat any of them. The purpose of this blog is to share some information I did not see anywhere else and to share some photos so you know what to expect. The best way for you to start is actually <a href="http://pelicanparts.com/">pelicanparts.com</a> then come back here for some tips from a DIY who has done it...successfully.<br />
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<i>A word of caution: I am sharing this information for your knowledge. Quite frankly, I advice against doing this yourself since the risk of destroying the engine by accidentally skipping the timing chains is very much real. As they say...</i><br />
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<i>Do not try this at home. </i><br />
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<i>FYI: I rebuilt my first engine at 14, I can do most regular maintenance on my cars blindfolded. My dad has a mechanical engineering degree and though me a ton about cars before I could walk. I have two degrees in engineering and I have been working on engines for decades as DIY. Even at that I took a calculated risk and I quadruple checked the cam alignment to the level of paranoia since a mistake in this project is very, VERY expensive. Again, do not try this at home. </i><br />
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Ok, I am done with the disclaimer.<br />
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Tip 1</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7cbwFI3hWgpt062nA0Up3XpCai9tV40It8OvQp4E1JeRBde3-jD2rgAktyrk3jEPZXPInwJG-cq9bO4bqFt1eARkQP10sYUgwVGZyUOcJYsnIukctOPKIRI1p4fwWFnKG-yw_hyz0k35/s1600/IMG_1770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit7cbwFI3hWgpt062nA0Up3XpCai9tV40It8OvQp4E1JeRBde3-jD2rgAktyrk3jEPZXPInwJG-cq9bO4bqFt1eARkQP10sYUgwVGZyUOcJYsnIukctOPKIRI1p4fwWFnKG-yw_hyz0k35/s320/IMG_1770.jpg" width="240" /></a>If your engine is dripping slowly from the place where the transmission meet the engine and/or if you hear a gentle rattling sound at start up that lasts about a 1 second, you might have my very same condition and you should have your car serviced. In my case the bearing seal clearly gave up and the high temperature grease of the sealed unit was completely gone and replaced by engine oil. I am convinced that this bearing was on its way to self destruct, I caught it just at the beginning of the process. For the record, oil should not be present inside this bearing since when this happens, the oil is basically trapped inside the bearing and it will slowly collect debris and start wearing all moving parts. It is a slow process but it will eventually result in the bearing failure and, judging from the increase in frequency of the noise above mentioned, the degrade accelerates exponentially once it starts. I bet if I waited another few weeks, this would have sounded (and looked) much worse. This unit was starting to show signs of excessive play once I removed it but, again, I did catch it in time so I had no damage. As you can see from the photo, it clearly has oil in it (seal removed) so I was sitting on a time bomb. Lastly, the noise at start up is gone. I suspect it was coming from the balls skipping and sliding in the races until they caught up with the RPM of the engine.<br />
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<h4>
Tip 2</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLW7jM1rbPQ7Rd2WsowSCNtcfW-zVhRLb4a7vR1W1yuj-keLrPPoCiKyUbuzVjVjZZMCn6NaR8p840NZa2yzkKYDojn299XEb3uG29a6tG5NA-jFNFKBFcSSOPgs6JPhAokCWo2RjgZ59/s1600/IMG_1721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbLW7jM1rbPQ7Rd2WsowSCNtcfW-zVhRLb4a7vR1W1yuj-keLrPPoCiKyUbuzVjVjZZMCn6NaR8p840NZa2yzkKYDojn299XEb3uG29a6tG5NA-jFNFKBFcSSOPgs6JPhAokCWo2RjgZ59/s200/IMG_1721.JPG" width="200" /></a>Take your time if you DIY and put every nut/bolt back where it come from loosely as you remove a part. It might be time consuming but it makes reassembly a stress free ride. I used this tip for the big bolts connecting the transmission to the engine. Not only they ARE different from one another, at some point Porsche changed what bolt was used in what hole so your engine will likely be different than some of the blog posts out there. In my case it looked like one bolt was missing. In reality, my car was assembled in the factory with different bigger bolts but they also decided to use one less than the first generation engines. Do not panic, just mark them clockwise (that is how I did it) and just put them aside. I used the triple square on the bottom left as my n.1, then went clock wise and marked each hole and each bolt with a marker and then I moved to the transmission removal step (not covered here). Here are some shots of the work in progress. It also shows the IMS cover after the replacement with T-Curil and the new sealed bolts. That takes me to the next tip. <br />
<h4>
Tip 3</h4>
Do use new bolts on IMS cover, on the pressure plate and on the flywheel. I forgot to buy the latter and de facto I had to stall my project for a few days. Learn from my mistake! In general, make sure you order everything you need ahead of time. Do not short cut, follow the instructions from a proper service document and replace everything they say to replace. This is the mechanical systems that grabs the 225Hp from the engine and transfers it to the rear wheels. It is not the right place to be <i>on the cheap</i> IMHO.<br />
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Tip 4</h4>
I have read that both Porsche and the Bentley service book say that after you torque the flywheel bolts, that each need to be turn an additional 90 or 120 degrees (Bentley say the latter). I used the fact that the bolts stars have 6 tips (see close up of the inside of the bolt) so I market the position of one tip WRT the flywheel after I torqued them, then marked two tips counter clock wise from it. Then I turned the bolts as close as having the two marks meet. I did not stress about doing exactly 120 degrees since I did the process by hand and I could tell when I was getting to a similar amount of effort required to rotate them. So effectively I stretched them at least 90 but not more than 120 degrees. Again, I have driven the car several hundred miles since, for what is worth. BTW Obviously you need to use a flywheel lock when doing this, look it up. <br />
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<h4>
Tip 5</h4>
Do buy a clutch alignment tool, it makes life incredibly easy during re-assembly and it is the cheaper tool you will need to buy for this project!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLrfTiOfiAWJh7W0ss3GVFRwZet96FZzY3GrIV076AkvqjYyX7XTbATzOV7iJ8VHhOqud5wxT8l0IKex9ZUjPthU4A_cme52n55j2fLFJnhwf3DZO2znDowOr62zUkMy6ON456MwVtHihB/s1600/IMG_1724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLrfTiOfiAWJh7W0ss3GVFRwZet96FZzY3GrIV076AkvqjYyX7XTbATzOV7iJ8VHhOqud5wxT8l0IKex9ZUjPthU4A_cme52n55j2fLFJnhwf3DZO2znDowOr62zUkMy6ON456MwVtHihB/s320/IMG_1724.jpg" width="240" /></a> </div>
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Tip 6 </h4>
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Do replace the clutch while you are in there. Not only it is a smart thing to do, it will also give you a brand new car: my original clutch was considerably harder and more difficult to manage than the new one. In the nearly ten year since the car was built they redesigned the pressure plate (despite looking identical to the old one) and it works incredibly better! It is like driving a new car.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-fW4KAhost7KRAiIT_03wqkzOGlQhyYJh49b4FHP9o2EroNymOtjXOHfRLzP8sLm3qBRJ92vfcPCkueQMVRKp6-fcFOBeygE-ODgK9bGWCKr2FyFR616oBlTK80cC6Gt8UgLwjddUV5r/s1600/IMG_1726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-fW4KAhost7KRAiIT_03wqkzOGlQhyYJh49b4FHP9o2EroNymOtjXOHfRLzP8sLm3qBRJ92vfcPCkueQMVRKp6-fcFOBeygE-ODgK9bGWCKr2FyFR616oBlTK80cC6Gt8UgLwjddUV5r/s320/IMG_1726.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div>
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Tip 7</h4>
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Manual transmission cables do pop from their ball pins. Just be gentle and apply even amount of force on both sides of the connector and they <i>will</i> pop. Disconnecting and reconnecting these cables is incredibly easy. DO make sure you memorize which cable goes where. They have different length so it is straightforward but do pay attention so you do not panic during re-assembly. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAeT78QlZhPderb8lmj0Tcew_afftITzJRhi3vFu96x_yMgsvSaEjH3Y4qRAbBN84L2Jo2nx6e0xSM1bKrXeM5ro_giRQH36hy7sfbz-6fpZVeZ0rb1qncaWkx7vt4b-BzBPflkmTVAuy/s1600/IMG_1727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEAeT78QlZhPderb8lmj0Tcew_afftITzJRhi3vFu96x_yMgsvSaEjH3Y4qRAbBN84L2Jo2nx6e0xSM1bKrXeM5ro_giRQH36hy7sfbz-6fpZVeZ0rb1qncaWkx7vt4b-BzBPflkmTVAuy/s320/IMG_1727.jpg" width="240" /> </a></div>
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Tip 8</h4>
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Last but not least, I took a simple approach during disassemble: keep all the parts that came from the left side on the left side of the "pile", conversely for the right side. This way I ended up with parts lined up next to the car on either side and it was a breeze to put them back. Things like the transmission mounts (which BTW double as engine mounts so DO support the engine with floor jacks) are symmetrical. Albeit they are clearly labeled with instruction as to which side they go, I still enjoyed the approach and made the process safe and effective. Not to mention that keeping things organized methodically will let you sleep better at night and it will lower your hearth rate when you finish the job and drive the car for the first time ;-)</div>
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<h3>
Tools I used (it might help you create your project list)</h3>
<ul>
<li>full set of Torx</li>
<li>full set of metric sockets</li>
<li>full set of metric hex </li>
<li>M10 triple square, if you do not know what it is, look it up, it is educational</li>
<li>clutch alignment tool</li>
<li>a 32mm socket to remove/loosen the chain tensioners</li>
<li>a filter cover removal tool, hands or one-size-fits-all will not work!</li>
<li>lots of WD40 to clean and lubricate all the bolts/nuts prior to loosening them. Remember you are working on parts that have been untouched for years, be gentle and let the loosening agent do its thing</li>
<li>a breaker bar socket wrench</li>
<li>a couple of torque wrenches of different size</li>
</ul>
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<br />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-4529316156819157462012-12-08T20:50:00.000-08:002012-12-10T16:30:43.530-08:002003 Porsche Boxster alternator replacement<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxy5w3FeuejXhvOIL8Q1GQ9oJ8uDMV7j-HGK38r1-tPdZpmtKv4FBArzQLoQA42j5cduJQ_zL9G9f5-EonINKgZ8mZOz5rmdzjI81ih4v9iw7e336IEwu83JWAvgXVaJzAszHTP5YY0Ls4/s1600/IMG_1489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxy5w3FeuejXhvOIL8Q1GQ9oJ8uDMV7j-HGK38r1-tPdZpmtKv4FBArzQLoQA42j5cduJQ_zL9G9f5-EonINKgZ8mZOz5rmdzjI81ih4v9iw7e336IEwu83JWAvgXVaJzAszHTP5YY0Ls4/s320/IMG_1489.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Problem: Voltage drop when engine running. Normally the alternator should feed 13 - 14.7 Volts to the battery. Mine was at 13V when I first diagnosed the problem and then went to 12.3V (basically nothing atop the battery itself). In my case I also experienced one short light of the battery light on the dashboard. Most likely this is when the voltage regulator died.<br />
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Solution: the voltage regulator is likely the culprit. You can read a lot more here <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/82-ELEC-Alternator.htm">http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/82-ELEC-Alternator.htm</a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTe1D1fzWfSZg8MdQxV9Uag_uj7Qq7YT-9VmLQdGBWYSgUkUyUGQPv9ttOfa5L9qjejolSnn7eKTqw-s7p7NE4MrAXN7OK4DCZHMQUMI5xAQ_I0fkg7wPLa83dlisDTZzC9CmtswM4gBGi/s1600/IMG_1487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTe1D1fzWfSZg8MdQxV9Uag_uj7Qq7YT-9VmLQdGBWYSgUkUyUGQPv9ttOfa5L9qjejolSnn7eKTqw-s7p7NE4MrAXN7OK4DCZHMQUMI5xAQ_I0fkg7wPLa83dlisDTZzC9CmtswM4gBGi/s200/IMG_1487.jpg" width="150" /></a>I ended up replacing the whole alternator with a rebuild one but if time is not of the essence you can order the voltage regulator from Pelican Parts and save about $100 (a re-manufactured alternator should run you about $170, if you are paying more you are probably being ripped off since the VR costs about $36 retail). From what I have read it is a good idea to just put a fresh rebuild alternator instead of changing only the VR but I will leave to your taste.<br />
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Tips and trick not available elsewhere:<br />
- in a 2003 and likely older model Boxster/Cayman there is no point in disconnecting the engine lead cable in the engine bay as described in most how-to blogs (i.e. the link above). The wire has been modified into a Y-split and the third leg of the Y is still connected after you disconnect from the engine bay so you still have no gained any more mobility when working on the alternator connections. Just be careful when you do remove it and install it and leave this lead alone.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4In5DDDkP4q25Z53b91CjMUTsBwKjRfCSCV-192M8LZRT2FMO56LpE7D_zU2RZ0DuQGTUisKxvQOky5igywcKTdwz3xwqIFEAGQSX1LZW70tZ04ldSoQhN1SQN8jgAcjc2j40-tJg3GOU/s1600/IMG_1488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4In5DDDkP4q25Z53b91CjMUTsBwKjRfCSCV-192M8LZRT2FMO56LpE7D_zU2RZ0DuQGTUisKxvQOky5igywcKTdwz3xwqIFEAGQSX1LZW70tZ04ldSoQhN1SQN8jgAcjc2j40-tJg3GOU/s200/IMG_1488.jpg" width="150" /></a>- it is a real pain to re-align the new alternator bolts, I used a strap to lift some of the weight of the alternator from the top so that it would move and rotate in place more easily.<br />
- you will likely have all kind of problems getting the right hand side bolt to thread. In my case the alignment was a left to right issue more than a vertical matter (it will make sense once you do it, just check for it when it is time) and I had to push it towards the center of the car to make the holes to align.<br />
- The right hand side bolt actually double as a pivot point for the alternator (sort of) and I tried install it with the left bolt in place and just "hook it" from the top into the grove built in on the engine blick but you basically have no visual to align it so it is a one in a million shot (look at said groove after you remove the old one, you will know what I mean). I used the technique above instead.<br />
<br />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-9265203993621466732011-02-01T15:22:00.001-08:002011-02-01T15:22:53.188-08:00TIG Welding resources<div class='posterous_autopost'><p><a href="http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/TIGhandbook/">http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/TIGhandbook/</a></p> <p> </p></div>Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-85112485325469960972011-01-03T09:46:00.001-08:002011-01-03T09:46:53.533-08:00LED turn signal upgrade on motorcycle (Ducati S4RS)<div class='posterous_autopost'><p>This shows you how to upgrade your bulb turn signals with LED aftermarket ones. In my case I picked some short arrow shaped ones and in the process, I changed the tail cover of my motorcycle. First let's talk electrical circuit. What applies to everybody here is the fact that you need to restore the circuit wattage since LED consume considerable less power than bulbs. In my case the Ducati S4RS does not expose the relay that controls the turn signals so there was no option to simply replace the relay with one appropriate for LEDs. In my case the individual turn signal would go from 10 watt for the bulb based to 0.7 watt for the LED based. For all practical purpose I ignored the 0.7 watt and just computed how much Ohm do I need to replace the 10 watt. Using the Ohm law it worked out to 10 watt, 10 Ohm.</p> <p><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/lnfEFiuHJrJxgeHdHdFucBAtjhlbhtpcEyDjBdouJnAyxEGIlueakbaonIor/photo_2.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/lnfEFiuHJrJxgeHdHdFucBAtjhlbhtpcEyDjBdouJnAyxEGIlueakbaonIor/photo_2.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> </p> <p>my DIY version<img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/wDGEmHCFhmqczsqmdeGEFklGmrjlAfGEyhzEkrvBnxDIcqdyCBbrzncjsqDj/EE033H_large.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="500"/> </p> <p><strong><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></strong></p> <p>ready made and sold by MonsterParts.com</p> <p><a href="http://www.monsterparts.com/p/EE033H/LED+Resistor+Kit.html">http://www.monsterparts.com/p/EE033H/LED+Resistor+Kit.html</a></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></strong></p> <p>Radio Shack happens to sell exactly those spec. You will need one per bulb ou replace. Some soldering, wired and shrink plastic tubing it is all you need to package it neatly. Add a couple connectors, actually make it into a bypass and you are done. If you are not the DIY type, I suggest mosterparts.com, they have this very same set up ready to go.</p> <p><span style="font-size: large; color: #ff0000;">Aside: the resistors for the front. </span></p> <p>The resistors for the front needs some special attention since they will be exposed to the elements. So I am creating an overlap on the top and folding it onto <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/chDuItudgyIffhifyesAdwclcunsoCtCeylpuwxifGutusfzGgbsJaftbHtE/photo_1.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/chDuItudgyIffhifyesAdwclcunsoCtCeylpuwxifGutusfzGgbsJaftbHtE/photo_1.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/wclAdsCvqnploGsDjzwwCvBydfmzyjAJeakDIcFIfndsJxHCGADmHDxbJJei/photo_2.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/wclAdsCvqnploGsDjzwwCvBydfmzyjAJeakDIcFIfndsJxHCGADmHDxbJJei/photo_2.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> itself to create a sealed end. Installing this vertically with the sealed end on the top (wires exits from the bottom) will ensure that no water or moisture can get inside.</p> <p><strong><span style="font-size: large;">The rear</span></strong></p> <p><span style="font-size: small;">Note: the resistor in this case fit into a nearly sealed compartment inside the CF tail along with all the wire connectors. So this installation is a little easier since there is no concern of the electrical component being exposed to the elements.</span><strong><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></strong></p> <p><strong><span style="font-size: large;"><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/blDeyxeoocEbqhwiffgwjrlclJqDytnFCJqovhDwwjFtxxabBsCzCjcmmIlI/photo_1.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/blDeyxeoocEbqhwiffgwjrlclJqDytnFCJqovhDwwjFtxxabBsCzCjcmmIlI/photo_1.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="373"/></a> </span></strong></p> <p><span style="font-size: small;">The rear turn signals are installed by connecting them together using a rubber hose and clamping them between the tail light assembly and the license plate frame. Cutting a small opening in the middle of the hose will allow the wires to come out. The whole assembly results in a solid rubber mount that is reminiscent with pretty much anything on this bike since pretty much everything other than the handlebar is rubber mounted.</span><strong><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></strong></p> <p><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/nJzuwmpJCxjvxEbnqtlrAfEnDiggJyeqsrGxxejlgcgAfcsddwgcqjCqpcwo/photo_3.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/nJzuwmpJCxjvxEbnqtlrAfEnDiggJyeqsrGxxejlgcgAfcsddwgcqjCqpcwo/photo_3.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/IguEElzfpGxIgACuxBCktbDlbHoaguApGAxcFCCkfzDGhrdBmiagGwoqotpu/photo_4.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2010-12-31/IguEElzfpGxIgACuxBCktbDlbHoaguApGAxcFCCkfzDGhrdBmiagGwoqotpu/photo_4.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> </p> <p><strong><span style="font-size: large;">The front</span></strong></p> <p>Here are the DIY CF braces to install the LED turn signals on the front of the bike. These were made using a 1'X1' CF tubing cut with a Dremel. I used card board to mock up the part and to get a template for the holes. Just measure twice and cut/drill once ;-)</p> <p><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/CGcsBuygJlrxImglAwDfBlbrnuGuqncxdufkkzJCEjnAfEycIzGnyGwdkiFa/photo_1.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/CGcsBuygJlrxImglAwDfBlbrnuGuqncxdufkkzJCEjnAfEycIzGnyGwdkiFa/photo_1.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/gzpwopcEDhvuEtheqpJBurouzskIuowatzjbkxgirBBAoEopfwffixljyaop/photo_2.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/gzpwopcEDhvuEtheqpJBurouzskIuowatzjbkxgirBBAoEopfwffixljyaop/photo_2.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="373"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/kniroFfbwoAlcCufqnktrkgyzzoFHnyhzcHkbqFiyJFhGpcCdlFBjixolGhl/photo_3.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-01/kniroFfbwoAlcCufqnktrkgyzzoFHnyhzcHkbqFiyJFhGpcCdlFBjixolGhl/photo_3.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="373"/></a> </p> <p> </p> <p><span style="font-size: large;">The final installation</span></p> <p><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/cjbpjwCkGvswtjDnlkFbGiElxgHFmoIHHzBciJAsczlpGccomliwhzbIsfGv/photo_4.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/cjbpjwCkGvswtjDnlkFbGiElxgHFmoIHHzBciJAsczlpGccomliwhzbIsfGv/photo_4.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/CuyyerJtooyJpjagveDasfDgvdkBwqcBokxcjGqzDFGJzjfzzHihFImDGzis/photo_1.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/CuyyerJtooyJpjagveDasfDgvdkBwqcBokxcjGqzDFGJzjfzzHihFImDGzis/photo_1.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/uEykmabsssddgnpgfGrpegkJlpaqoqtbEaccwopxwqgtzhfGIEilskHtvEzz/photo_3.JPG.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/temp-2011-01-03/uEykmabsssddgnpgfGrpegkJlpaqoqtbEaccwopxwqgtzhfGIEilskHtvEzz/photo_3.JPG.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="669"/></a> </p> <p> </p></div>Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-31677216375067386432010-11-30T11:42:00.000-08:002010-11-30T11:56:49.464-08:00Monster (S4RS) inexpensive tail mod and cleanupThe Ducati Monster up to 2008 are notorious for having a somewhat ugly rear fender and tail. In fact it is so unappealing that the tail of the bike is lovingly referred to as the "beer tray".<br />So I have decided to make a small and inexpensive modification by removing the extra plastic license plate holder and fender and using a couple of anodized aluminum strips to put the license plate right under its light, thus cleaning the tail of the bike quite a lot. The mod is somewhat self explanatory if you look at the pictures.<span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><br />Before</span><br /><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ANDREA%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png" alt="" /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmKsbbphEs7qASx_aAtHvdP9AcIfwaiWEjHzR8LnywcshO2kRmu6X3c5-aJLMeVXEenegfwBv7nWNxEqzjY6Y3RKWZ59iS4pIQll3T0ujY_PcoxcKcFizWT2LEhZLFfcWLnJDNDqOGCTb/s1600/ducati-monster-s4rs.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmKsbbphEs7qASx_aAtHvdP9AcIfwaiWEjHzR8LnywcshO2kRmu6X3c5-aJLMeVXEenegfwBv7nWNxEqzjY6Y3RKWZ59iS4pIQll3T0ujY_PcoxcKcFizWT2LEhZLFfcWLnJDNDqOGCTb/s320/ducati-monster-s4rs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545433239487809762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:130%;">After, close up</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBJPcX4jCNBAPKEtGTQ0FlgMnejnYCpAfITGn2TP6Gi322x61u3WHNGyXpuA6M4pNognWvqhdC1448vcswQs9itALQEQk9d8ODABSusJBGZJQ6nj6cJyf93wzubI_O-EDV3vhDmNc6v8T/s1600/photo-2.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJBJPcX4jCNBAPKEtGTQ0FlgMnejnYCpAfITGn2TP6Gi322x61u3WHNGyXpuA6M4pNognWvqhdC1448vcswQs9itALQEQk9d8ODABSusJBGZJQ6nj6cJyf93wzubI_O-EDV3vhDmNc6v8T/s320/photo-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545432592418563218" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:130%;">After from afar</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhKQE_lxf-qFfiWZQQx8ju9anDYwF5lfLnLkFhOQYYPBytF6EhoSoMwB2BUa4smxkjjCKKRKnlPV2juEtNGDOoN8LyB9p-WG5UsiPZ1GevG2l655zaYIOWsJSMh0_A26FIIPdkBuBI7Yf/s1600/photo-12.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUhKQE_lxf-qFfiWZQQx8ju9anDYwF5lfLnLkFhOQYYPBytF6EhoSoMwB2BUa4smxkjjCKKRKnlPV2juEtNGDOoN8LyB9p-WG5UsiPZ1GevG2l655zaYIOWsJSMh0_A26FIIPdkBuBI7Yf/s320/photo-12.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5545434093454272034" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSfV2IBxiwQDmLXpVHnudkiEAuz_ioEb0FKPslolyxRDwNhwrT0FFM5Gb0ugOwQpdgxrTl6FJf7xU-C1Zqv8jJwtTE4qtTlwBymF9oTI0ibp4q9KrL7tqBScYQq8G2mTsPXeUQTt-R6bqo/s1600/photo.jpg"><br /></a>Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-77390499112663146812010-10-18T08:14:00.001-07:002010-10-18T08:14:10.001-07:00Replacing front tire of my S4RS<div class='posterous_autopost'><p><a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/diygeek/ljmrdirttvrglbujbhsjfwzgHpxGythqaaCviClkohBHJfJwsAqqCluaInqg/p13.jpg.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/diygeek/ljmrdirttvrglbujbhsjfwzgHpxGythqaaCviClkohBHJfJwsAqqCluaInqg/p13.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="373"/></a> <a href='http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/diygeek/bnmyEnbmbjguxaqroBIqyIavjydhqvbfhzEvzhfAmiIfAgmiHJczrncltliJ/p15.jpg.scaled1000.jpg'><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/diygeek/bnmyEnbmbjguxaqroBIqyIavjydhqvbfhzEvzhfAmiIfAgmiHJczrncltliJ/p15.jpg.scaled500.jpg" width="500" height="373"/></a> <div><a href='http://diygeek.posterous.com/replacing-front-tire-of-my-s4rs'>See and download the full gallery on posterous</a></div></p> <p>Replacing the front tire is not that hard if you have basic mechanic skills. Do recall you need to remove and securely hold aside the brake calipers before you can remove the wheel. Other than that it is a straightforward matter. <br />1 loosen the axle bolt and remove the nut along with the spacer<br />2 loosen the four clamping screws at the bottom of both legs<br />3 remove and secure the brake calipers to the frame (see photo with the wheel off, can you see where I tie the caliper?)<br />4 gently tap the axle out, I used a small plastic handle from an old screwdriver and a rubber mallet<br />5 grab and make a note of the two spacers on each side of the wheel, they are different!</p> <p>That's it. Note that the spacers are different in width and they can only be installed one way. If you swap them accidentally, the calipers bolts on the right side will not line up and you have to start over. Don't ask me how I know ;-)<br />Lastly, clean the axle and grease it before you put it back on. Same for all screws aforementioned. Look up the torque settings for all of them, several people have posted them on the web. If you do not know what torque settings are or you think you can just wing it, please take your bike to a dealership :-)</p></div>Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-38354113579235904622010-10-18T08:13:00.001-07:002010-11-30T11:01:54.320-08:00Desmoquattro (4 valve) belts and valves service<div class="posterous_autopost"><p><a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/pwlnfAwbBEfneAvBfaoyooqgjazoajDvdtgAuhrAfDFdgltwziyqoyJcDgDv/p48.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/pwlnfAwbBEfneAvBfaoyooqgjazoajDvdtgAuhrAfDFdgltwziyqoyJcDgDv/p48.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/cowuFnzspCHknxdjjbrrFhsJHguvisFGDgAzczblvIzakeIAtclcFGIzbqef/p50.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/cowuFnzspCHknxdjjbrrFhsJHguvisFGDgAzczblvIzakeIAtclcFGIzbqef/p50.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/yDqcHuytouffIvCHweuhvAvDdpdEIAoBjCpGHoporHfDFognidsECxiBFlvc/p68.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/yDqcHuytouffIvCHweuhvAvDdpdEIAoBjCpGHoporHfDFognidsECxiBFlvc/p68.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/pfvbAJpgGFyfagwoIieajHafaEDvgyDGsEvBGEzijJzuEEkhfwDzByszhgly/p70.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/pfvbAJpgGFyfagwoIieajHafaEDvgyDGsEvBGEzijJzuEEkhfwDzByszhgly/p70.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/xraruzJfoHhxfsHCbEAcxcdydwqvwDIytlmpnbmdInvkbedzgGksDxjEIzdd/p72.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/xraruzJfoHhxfsHCbEAcxcdydwqvwDIytlmpnbmdInvkbedzgGksDxjEIzdd/p72.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/ztzpxFtrhFBACkcoDCvECdmBFhnoCxCrctCzDmidHdfdtsIrvxuDijteiFhc/p74.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/ztzpxFtrhFBACkcoDCvECdmBFhnoCxCrctCzDmidHdfdtsIrvxuDijteiFhc/p74.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/tFhvADjrekikxnCtbEnxtyDyfvnrIysbqhhHscfxxkjHcDbxsxtEmnHIbdgw/p52.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/tFhvADjrekikxnCtbEnxtyDyfvnrIysbqhhHscfxxkjHcDbxsxtEmnHIbdgw/p52.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/dAdzpjpxmIGdvwxehHAqfEkilxCfhaytkggBEHHbhnbipmogDBimEnHfuxzg/p54.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/dAdzpjpxmIGdvwxehHAqfEkilxCfhaytkggBEHHbhnbipmogDBimEnHfuxzg/p54.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/DDwompzookyBaFxmHpvlwDbCffGkjDmarfHojhJBkpbecCefDipsrixkkFFy/p56.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/DDwompzookyBaFxmHpvlwDbCffGkjDmarfHojhJBkpbecCefDipsrixkkFFy/p56.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/JCpacstnBccrftJqHdaEuoJccfacAoaohJzbFAHCICrfstvenAIqfbDrhuGg/p58.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/JCpacstnBccrftJqHdaEuoJccfacAoaohJzbFAHCICrfstvenAIqfbDrhuGg/p58.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/BydDCdgdolGGrnIpzgHDFepjFfhJhedfoGnGDfirtycHysbAEnmcEDkymDgd/p60.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/BydDCdgdolGGrnIpzgHDFepjFfhJhedfoGnGDfirtycHysbAEnmcEDkymDgd/p60.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/fjAeBFJogvHJdgjyvgxzJeazDkdxlcdnHnJbCcFlkJvEEBdqsEJyHCmhoInz/p62.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/fjAeBFJogvHJdgjyvgxzJeazDkdxlcdnHnJbCcFlkJvEEBdqsEJyHCmhoInz/p62.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/zdBHHfDFAEgmrvdGEngwotJkrlIdhHcjxsGbsgGmhomDsazEtedFioHukeHD/p64.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/zdBHHfDFAEgmrvdGEngwotJkrlIdhHcjxsGbsgGmhomDsazEtedFioHukeHD/p64.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> <a href="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/esyHAzfIjddqbIpDIgzqJJDJIdsBFwDqcmfvmCbcugiCJBgdHjaxqqBBydsD/p66.jpg.scaled1000.jpg"><img src="http://posterous.com/getfile/files.posterous.com/andreamariotti/esyHAzfIjddqbIpDIgzqJJDJIdsBFwDqcmfvmCbcugiCJBgdHjaxqqBBydsD/p66.jpg.scaled500.jpg" height="670" width="500" /></a> </p><div><a href="http://diygeek.posterous.com/desmoquattro-4-valve-belts-and-valves-service">See and download the full gallery on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">posterous</span></a></div><p></p> <p>This is a short description of how to change the timing belts and how to check the valve clearances. Particularly I will share tips and tricks you need to know. First, get yourself the following (must have IMHO:</p> <ul> <li>1) guitar tuning or audio analyzer software for your laptop. You will need it to check the tension of the new belts </li> <li>2) paint marker </li> <li>3) torque wrench </li> <li>4) mechanic gloves, several of the tasks require handling or working around objects with sharp edges</li> <li>5) engine rotating tool</li> <li>6) belt timing lock for the vertical cylinder. Get the original or, even better, get the after market part for around $20. I used it, it works beautifully.</li> <li>7) watch the three videos on the topic by California Cycle Work <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/cacycleworksdotcom">http://www.youtube.com/user/cacycleworksdotcom</a> this will prepare you for the work ahead</li> </ul> <p><strong>Replace belts</strong><br />I am going to skip the basic and focus on what you need to know. Start by removing the fuel tank and pay attention to the fast disconnect lines and where they go. Once you have the tank out of the way, remove the battery. The battery tray slides right out, just make sure you pull the draining hose gently. You need to remove all of the above so you can remove the screws holding the frame that hold battery, ECU and all electronic.<br />Note: you do not need to remove everything, just enough so that you can move the battery frame out of the way. I did remove the ECU to give me more free play with the rest of the wiring. I also loosened some of the electronics components for the same reason but I did that without actually unplug anything other than the ECU.</p><p>Now you can remove the coil (hold in place with one nut) and remove the spark plug of the vertical cylinder. The horizontal cylinder is a lot easier, just carefully undo the coil and remove the spark plug. Now you can rotate the engine to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">TDC</span> of the horizontal cylinder. This is marked on the timing gear on the engine axle (as opposed to the ones on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">cams's</span> heads). Just align the markings and you will see that the inside of the timing gears on the head of the vertical cylinder align, they look like two T laying to the side pointing aft. See photo.</p> <p>Now mark the belts. I suggest you watch the video from California Cycle Work on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Youtube</span> for this step. The link again <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/cacycleworksdotcom">http://www.youtube.com/user/cacycleworksdotcom</a></p> <p><em>Note: the vertical belt is the tricky one, I suggest you make marking on the first visible tooth on both sides of the belt at the engine shaft gear. This will come in handy as you may want to move the engine back and forth a little to allow the new (and stiff) belt to bite where you want them. I aligned those markings first and then I applied tension on the belt as I worked my way to the head.</em></p> <p><em>Note: to install the belt I recommend replacing the movable belt <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">tensioner</span>, install and align all markings on the belt and then put the movable <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">tensioner</span> back. I did this for both belts and it worked like a charm.</em></p> <p>Now you are ready to tension the belts, follow the procedure in the video and, for good measure, rotate the engine several times by hands once you are done to make sure everything runs smoothly. Check the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">TDC</span> of the horizontal cylinder by using the marking on the engine gear axle and the alignment of the T shaped inside of the heads gears.</p> <p><br /><strong>Check the valves clearances</strong><br />Remove the head covers. I would do one at the time. Note that once you remove all screws, the head will sit tight. Use a long flat screwdriver and a rubber mullet and gently (I mean gently!) tap the head covers upwards sticking the screwdriver between the head gears. Once the seal is loose, pry the head off by hands carefully. Now the four valves and the two <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">desmodromic</span> cams are visible (see photo). Use a feeler to check the clearances of the opening rockets and the closing rockets. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Ducati</span> recommends that you check the opening rocker right where the shim meet the rocker and the closing where the rocker meets the cam.</p> <p><em>NOTE: Obviously you have to put the cylinder you are working on on <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">TDC</span>!!! </em></p> <p>If the clearances are off, you will need to do the unthinkable, you need to remove the four bolts that hold the cam in place and remove the cam. This will give you access to the shims.</p> <p><em>Note: my engine was within tolerances so I actually did not had to do this step. If you do have to do this, obviously you need to remove the belts. Before you do so, do make sure you mark the belt. You need not to worry about the cams rotating since there is not pressure on them when the piston is at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">TDC</span>.</em></p><p><em>Note: to remove the horizontal cylinder head cover, you will need to remove the radiator. Simply empty the system, loosen the hoses that connects to it and carefully locate the electrical plug for each fan. They are located one per side and rather hidden. I am showing the left one in the photo, check it out. Once you disconnect the fans and disconnects the hoses, there is only one screw holding the radiator in place. Remove it. Now very carefully remove the radiator. I suggest to remove the air scoop under the lower triple clamp to prevent from scratching the radiator or cutting yourself on it! Not that the radiator is remarkably delicate!!!! I did manage to bent one of the supports just by laying down in a cradle. </em></p></div>Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-47849364293360481412010-08-21T17:58:00.000-07:002010-08-21T18:15:58.794-07:00Tuning valve clearance on rocket arm engine types<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNom8eyq8CkmbthJGPvfkMW46sFgEHPBgPGmJf1MP6_3Z7glh-Sr41SuJDLNSg__wI39A45gRiEWpb39__sAAjvYshUdHaWfzCYbLQbgd85oIkle813CXfETq3N4twvqyds6IXhPmCPXWx/s1600/engine+timing.png"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNom8eyq8CkmbthJGPvfkMW46sFgEHPBgPGmJf1MP6_3Z7glh-Sr41SuJDLNSg__wI39A45gRiEWpb39__sAAjvYshUdHaWfzCYbLQbgd85oIkle813CXfETq3N4twvqyds6IXhPmCPXWx/s320/engine+timing.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508035326271333410" border="0" /></a><br />Problem<br />check and adjust the clearances of the valve opening on engines with rocker/arm timing.<br /><br />Solution<br />this is an example based on the Universal Diesel 5416 engine but if you take any other engine that uses this design, the instructions are pretty much the same. For example, Moto Guzzi motorcycle engines can be tuned much the same way.<br /><br />In a 5416 engine, the first step is to remove the valve cover. This is remarkably easy on this engine since only two bolts keep the cover in place. Remove the bolts and carefully lift the cover. Note: some engine have the optional breather. The breather is hold in place by two more small bolts, simply remove those and lift the breather out of the way before removing the cover.<br /><br />Then pick one rocker at the time and follow the instructions from the engine manual to rotate the engine to TDC for that rocker. Basically what you need is the camshaft to be at the lowest point for that arm thus giving the rocker the most clearance. You *could* just rotate the engine by hand looking for the TDC. I do not condone this method but I do admit that it works for old engine where finding documentation can be nearly impossible. Once the rocker is at it loose state, use a wrench to loosen the nut while using a flat screw driver to keep the arm from rotating. Once the nut is loose, place a feeler in between the rocker and the top of the valve and screw in/out the arm until the feeler can fit snugly in the gap. Now carefully tighten the nut making sure you hold the screwdriver firmly in place so the arm does not rotate. Repeat for each rocker arm and you are done. Trust me, it sound more complicated than it actually is.Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-19805729689110274492010-08-21T17:53:00.001-07:002010-08-21T22:09:27.089-07:00Marine Diesel - replacing the sending unitProblem<br />old, and I mean old, marine diesel engine inexplicably looses oil pressure at idle when the engine is warm.<br /><br />Solution<br />check your oil pressure, do not trust your sending unit. Chances are you have no problem at all, the sending unit is simply failing. If the pressure you measure is within range, you just need a new sending unit (oil pressure sensor).<br /><br />Universal Diesel 5416<br />If you have one of these very popular marine engines, the sending unit can be purchased at Napa Automotive for nearly 1/3 of the price of the OEM. Here are a few photos of the part you want.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJd_FB8uJU-0BI0O10otQEGkGh5JT0j1LkgUYzEE9cnQu4un4zGy7sQU-jIXZ0Sy-sMk9Y5QeZU4VfwIaQvvImKMMfx0yyEdVbicDnl2Oqa3kNfZQnKYr9zW4KOH4sciZq1sNMPuRS4H8f/s1600/photo+1.png"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 307px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJd_FB8uJU-0BI0O10otQEGkGh5JT0j1LkgUYzEE9cnQu4un4zGy7sQU-jIXZ0Sy-sMk9Y5QeZU4VfwIaQvvImKMMfx0yyEdVbicDnl2Oqa3kNfZQnKYr9zW4KOH4sciZq1sNMPuRS4H8f/s320/photo+1.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508032270431854498" border="0" /></a><br /><img src="file:///Users/mariotti/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-5.png" alt="" />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-84961693013581790822010-08-21T17:21:00.001-07:002010-08-21T22:14:42.763-07:00Costant Velocity Joint replacement, Audi A4Problem<br />clicking noise coming from one of the front wheel (front wheel drive car) upon turning and accelerating from standing still. For example, turning right/left at a stop sign. The car in this post is an Audi A4 (B5 model).<br /><br />Solution<br />There are tons of sites that already post the instructions on removing the CV boot and the CV joint itself. Please see <a href="http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/cvjoints/">this one</a> or even better, <a href="http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel37.shtml">this one</a> for a full description. Note that replacing the CV boot and replacing the CV joint basically require the same amount of work. Simply replace the old CV joint with the new one when replacing the boot and voila, you saved a ton of money. In my case it was $100 (parts + DIY) Vs. $850 estimate from the local dealer. What I wanted to share here is some tips and tricks:<br /><ol><li>make an extractor tool out of the bolt you remove from the old CV by simply grinding off the first 1/4 inch of the thread (tip end, of course). I used a Dremel power tool and it works like a charm. Once you prep the bolt this way, you can screw it back in all the way and the CVJ pops right off the axle effortlessly.</li><li>turn the wheels all the way to the opposite side you are working on. Say you are working on the right wheel, turn the wheels all the way to the left. This will push the steering arm all the way out. Once you pop the support arms (see photo) this will give you all the room you need to work on the CVJ and CV boot without removing the axle.<div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ZsGfAKJzlXaYRuYxajE3LBUe1U4Gu419NTZzs44dAyzHnXslNz7Jk0xlcaLsW4BO8V3U3C7VyhtXRPY8lnI0Guc_PHhRusOqTosFjSIRbKli0CDME70goIVLAkWp4HSBrCKnKK4X1w4m/s1600/photo+1.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 149px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ZsGfAKJzlXaYRuYxajE3LBUe1U4Gu419NTZzs44dAyzHnXslNz7Jk0xlcaLsW4BO8V3U3C7VyhtXRPY8lnI0Guc_PHhRusOqTosFjSIRbKli0CDME70goIVLAkWp4HSBrCKnKK4X1w4m/s200/photo+1.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508029468902891970" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaPVTt-ETIMxWaEHgwkUK520uPAf1A6GY6Spsi1NGkArbpHjoB4wNUbaoUdckXfWPOfUGVs3eQyFElLKR-DE0CP3ZMb21yMPEPBXUdYeGLW7wOJVY-n7wEZQ2MmbQ4RMTBByO4xV9Np4I/s1600/photo+4.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaPVTt-ETIMxWaEHgwkUK520uPAf1A6GY6Spsi1NGkArbpHjoB4wNUbaoUdckXfWPOfUGVs3eQyFElLKR-DE0CP3ZMb21yMPEPBXUdYeGLW7wOJVY-n7wEZQ2MmbQ4RMTBByO4xV9Np4I/s200/photo+4.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508028065550988434" border="0" /></a></div></li><li>do ease all the wheel bolts including the axle bolt before lifting the car. I am talking about 1/2 turn, no more. This will just make life easier once the tire is off the ground and you cannot and should not put torque against the axle/transmission</li><li>if you are replacing the CVJ, note that a new one hardly swivel by hand whereas a worn one will easily swivel just by touching it (once removed, of course). The point here is the tolerances are very tight on the new part and they will loosen over time up to the point where you will start hearing the aforementioned ticking noise when turning. The ticking is generated in fact by the excessive clearances in the joint.</li></ol><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeivxBheZtxVvSzhqwWvYHB-A86KOAAb1T5RCoZUkc6qfxvfEQ81vCvW4fkcV9Io4GVwT-_I_PYWsHYIb3xrmoOHaY82ychn8OkxR5OI3ylqXG-z9nIXFvMlKYD-AlOQ7_P1weejmFOt3/s1600/photo+5.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeivxBheZtxVvSzhqwWvYHB-A86KOAAb1T5RCoZUkc6qfxvfEQ81vCvW4fkcV9Io4GVwT-_I_PYWsHYIb3xrmoOHaY82ychn8OkxR5OI3ylqXG-z9nIXFvMlKYD-AlOQ7_P1weejmFOt3/s320/photo+5.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508030344219044674" border="0" /></a><br />A sample of the tools I used for the job. Basically you want to have a basic tool kit of metric sockets and wrenches. For this project you will also need these three tools that are definitely not off the shelf so if you do not have them, please make sure you procure them first:<br /><ol><li>depending on the specific year of your A4 you may need either a 27mm socket or a 17mm hex. If your car is prior 2001, chances are you need the socket.<br /></li><li>a CV boot clamping tool. This is a pain to find but Napa Auto parts actually carries it. Starts there.</li><li>long arm torque wrench capable of 120 lb torque. I bough mine at the local Osh.<br /></li></ol><img src="file:///Users/mariotti/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-1.png" alt="" /><img src="file:///Users/mariotti/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-2.png" alt="" /><img src="file:///Users/mariotti/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-3.png" alt="" /><img src="file:///Users/mariotti/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot-4.png" alt="" />Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-28600729979135655412010-06-20T17:52:00.000-07:002010-06-20T18:05:46.768-07:00Boat inboard diesel stalls after few minutes<span style="font-weight: bold;">Problem</span><br />Inboard diesel engine stalls after few minutes of operation. It restarts right away only to stall again.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Solution</span><br />Your fuel lines are clogged somewhere. Secure the boat (drop anchor, sail back in if a sailboat, radio for tow etc.). Debug the fuel system. Most diesel inboard engine have at least two pumps and one filter. Start working your way backwards, start from bleeding the high pressure fuel pump. Turn the engine ignition on so that the electric pump will start. This should prime the fuel lines. Locate the priming bolt on the high pressure pump on the engine itself. Loosen it just a little. If the system works all the way to that point, you will see fuel coming out. Tighten back and turn everything off. Your problem is with the injectors. Start cursing and call your favorite marine mechanics, this is out of most people's league.<br />If no fuel comes out, you are in luck, sort of speak. Start back tracking, tighten the bleeding bolt you just loosen and locate the fuel filter. This too has a bleeding bolt. With the electric pump still going loosen this one and look for fuel coming out. If fuel comes out, the clog is in the hose connecting the fuel filter with the high pressure pump. Remove it and either clean it or replace it. If nothing comes out, tighten the bleeding bolt and move to the electrical fuel pump. Locate the electric fuel pump and loosen the line that goes to the engine. If fuels comes out, that line is clogged. Remove and clean or replace. If no fuels come out (and you <span style="font-weight: bold;">can</span> hear the pump running) the clog is on the pick up line from the tank to the electric pump. Remove the hose and try to unclog it or replace it. Note that if you get this far, chances are your fuel tank is full of debriefs and mud. The mud is actually made by bacteria living the suspended water in your diesel. I recommend either cleaning the fuel tank (if you can access it and you can access the inside really well) or replace it with a plastic one so you can keep and eye on think over time. In my case it was the latter so I replaced the whole aluminum tank with a modern polycarbonate tank.Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-91038906257368263112010-06-20T17:43:00.001-07:002010-08-21T17:17:27.530-07:00Ducati S4Rs rear wheel replacement<a href="http://goo.gl/photos/Th03" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_rfI2NZBYgiM/SxMUCmDrllI/AAAAAAAADDU/yVx7HMzb7Tc/s512/photo-7.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Note: this may apply to any single sided Ducati<br /><br />Problem<br />The wheel may not align with the traction pins, resulting in permanent damage to the hub and possible danger to the rider. Note that the wheel bolt may loosen as result.<br /><br />Solution<br />This is a tricky one but with an easy solution. When replacing the wheel, make sure you visually align the four pins with the wheel, then tighten the bolt.<br /><br />Note: removing the single hub nut will require a lot of torque. I used a long handle torque wrench for both loosening and tightening the nut. Do look up the proper torque for your bike and be aware that different MY S4 will have different values and possibly different nut size. Same for 1098, Multistrada and Streetfigher. Lastly, you may need to remove the lower muffler to remove the wheel without scratching anything. This is relatively simple, there are two bolts on the back of the can that attaches it to the support and one hose clamp that holds it tight on the exhaust pipe. Remove the first two (careful, they have washers) and simply loosen the latter. It will slip right off. This will make removing the wheel much easier.Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3371565089109489379.post-90619289563224405422010-06-20T17:29:00.001-07:002010-06-20T17:43:01.426-07:00Boxster top flaps at highway speed<span style="font-weight: bold;">Problem</span><br />Convertible top flutters at highway speeds.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Solution</span><br />There is a nylon cable going across the top 2/3 of the way from the front. This map back to where the top frame folds. In my case the cable snapped out of its anchor on the driver side. You will need a T star wrench to loosen the hook/anchor so you can snap the cable back in.Andrea Mariottihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01039837607601417017noreply@blogger.com0